REVIEWS

Basque's Next Generation / SF Chronicle June 6th, 2004

"The lively atmoshpere and rustic, boldly flavored food makes it a great place to spend an evening." The crisp shaved potatoes: "...golden brown with a glitter of salt and fried herbs scattered over the top that glowed like emeralds. The nightly special: "A nightly special of ham-stuffed squid with rice and a inky black bean sauce ($10.75) admirably highlighted the rustic nature of the cuisine. Tuna bleu des basque sauce: "Noblia barely sears a thin slice of tuna ($8.75) and sets it on a creamy Bleu des Basque sauce, made with an assertive sheep milk cheese. It's a great dish with loads of character. The prawns brochette: "The chef ramps up the intensity even more on the whole prawns ($8.50) macerated in a spicy chile sauce, creating a compatible duet of sweet, briny seafood and pungent spice. The lamb chop cassoulet: "The white beans and pig's feet cassoulet ($10.50) will appeal to people like me who are drawn to concentrated gelatinous textures.

"Iluna Basque's Big Wine List Aims High" At Iluna Basque there are as many wines by the glass -- 22 -- as there are dishes on the menu. In addition there are 75 bottles selections, quite a collection for a modest 42-seat small plate restaurant in North Beach. "You can find what yiu want, with Bordeaux, Burgundy, California, Basque Spanish, and wines of the world from which to choose. It's a very well-selected list....." "Iluna Basque is one of the restaurants that serves until midnight and appeals to the chef's contempories."

Michael Bauer