REVIEWS

Basque in the Light / May, 2004
A casual tapas spot shines in the heart of North Beach

Lately, North Beach has been looking less like Little Italy and lot more wordly with the addition of several new restaurants spanning the globe (think sushi at Sake Lab and Greek at Estia -- and there's even Argentinean on the way).

This spring, Basque fare joined the ranks when 24-year-old Mattin Noblia opened Iluna Basque off Washington Square Park. The baby-faced chef (who just happen to live across the street) turns out affordable tapas ranging from delicate, almost-creamy crab croquettes to a roasted red bell pepper stuffed with diced portobellos and topped with salty Manchego chesse to a delicious duck confit.

Most of the small plates are reminiscent of his Basque heritage (as well as of Piperade's menu, where Noblia worked under chef Gerald Hirigoyen).
The wine list offers Basque varietals, and there's a full bar. Jampacked since the day it opened, the restaurant is perfect for a lively night of eating and drinking. Early risers will be pleased to know that Noblia will soon open a coffeehouse called Eguna (which means "days") Basque right next door.

7 x 7 SF Magazine - Rebecca Harper